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Everest climbed for first time without oxygen

The Times, London

Everest has been climbed without oxygen. Reinhold Messner, aged 33, of Italy, and Peter Habeler, aged 35, of Austria, supported by the Everest Austrian expedition, reached the summit.

Their historic climb, 25 years after the first conquest by Hillary and Tenz-ing, settles an old argument that has gone on since the earliest explorations of the mountain by British expeditions 57 years ago: the highest point on earth can be reached without artificial aid.

Carrying only a camera, emergency kit and a light rope, the two climbers reached the summit in an alpine-style ascent in five-and-a-half hours from the South Col. This was remarkably fast even by the Standards of climbers using oxygen.

The descent was even more remarkable. Herr Habeler, a professional ski instructor with a keen sense of balance, slid on his bottom from below the south summit for much of the 2,800 ft to the South Col. After a series of precarious slides he debouched on to Mye Col in avalanche of snow and feathers as his down suit burst.

Signor Messner followed at a more sedate pace, arriving one-and-three-quarters of an hour later. Both men were in good condition and the highest spirits. The news broke at the base camp at 2.30 p.m. with a radio message relayed from camp. Dr Oswald Oelz, a member of the fourth summit party, his voice breaking with excitement, announced: "Everest has been climbed without oxygen Peter has just arrived back at the South Col."

Mr Eric Jones, the Welsh climber, who accompanied Signor Messner and Herr Habeler to the South Col, filmed the start and the finish of their climb and is to join a later attempt on the summit using oxygen.

The pair had waited more than two days at 23,000 ft for the weather to clear before starting on their attempt. They spent an uncomfortably cold and windy night on the South Col

Signor Messner has now climbed four peaks over 27,000 ft without oxygen. During his climb on Nanga Prabat his brother was killed in an avalanche. He and Herr Habeler ware the sixty-first and sixty-second climbers to reach the summit of Everest. (Moscow News)

Примечание. В нашей печати, в том числе и в переводах на русский язык, «синьор», «герр», «месье* и т. п. сохраняются только в обращении. Чтобы передать эту дань вежливого упоминания о живущих (об умерших не принято говорить «мистер», «синьор» и т. п.), по-русскн достаточно прибавить его инициал. Если бы в статье упоминалось имя погибшего Месснера, то ои уже не именовался бы синьором.

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